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Monday, March 31, 2003

22:30 I remember watching Christopher Nolan´s Memento some years ago and finding it fascinating and intriguing. I had to think of it again last week (with a chill in my spine) when I visited my mom´s house and saw, on the mirror above her dresser, lots of scraps of paper with notes of all kinds (some of them with question marks). Before I went there I had already noticed she would frequently pull an unusual amount of little notes from her purse as we talked about this or that. For some reason when I saw the ones displayed in her bedroom I was shocked in a way that was new to me.

This is nothing new though. Thinking back I remember she always had small reminders or phone numbers in that particular place. Now it seems to me that the same habit, along with some other ones, has grown into a barroque complexity and has a sense of emergency or despair to it. I have to wonder how much of this is just how I see it, distorted/magnified by distance and my unfrequent visits to Brazil, and how much it is the evidence of the growing compulsiveness we all are (more or less) prone to as we age and decay.
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Saturday, March 29, 2003

12:43 From an e-mail sent to Richard:
Luis Fernando and I were mugged by a guy this afternoon. He approached us on broad daylight, put one hand on each of our shoulders (mimicking the facial expression and body language of friends meeting on the street) and saying the classics ´this is a robbery´ , ´I have a gun´, ´don´t look around´ and ´pass me your mobile phones now and walk straight away without looking back or else´. As usual and as generally recommended we did not resist and felt really stupid afterwards. We spent about an hour on a payphone informing the two mobile companies of the theft and then THREE HOURS on a lousy police station to file a report to use with our insurances. I was sad/upset because of the present you and Fred gave me... I got two copies of the theft report so I can use one for the local GSM chip (they said they will replace it) and another to be translated (I guess) and used to claim the KPN insurance we made when you bought it. Should that be a problem my travel insurance might also be of use.

It´s not affecting my mood that much tough!

The fun thing was that while we were waiting forever at the police station Luis Fernando and I talked of Ricardo, an old old mutual friend whom we hadn´t met in person, or barely heard of, for the last 15 years. I decided to use the payphone (outside; there wasn´t one in the police station) to call the directory service, got Ricardo´s number and called him. He came by right away and spent some time with us in the depressing station corridor catching up with the news of all these years and then went back to whatever appointment he had leaving us waiting another two hours for the officer in charge, who turned out to be pretty polite and considerate after all.


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Tuesday, March 25, 2003

11:57 From an e-mail sent to Paul:
I arrived in Sao Paulo Sunday night and a lot happened since then. I am still trying to recover from a talk I had last night with a gerontologist friend with whom my mom had a brief consultation some weeks ago. He prepared me for pretty heavy scenarios. From the little he saw during the consultation it seems her condition is very worrying both clinically and mentally. Add to that the fact that her health insurance company is sort of failliet and our ongoing family conflicts... oooohh, man, I feel it won´t be easy to untangle all this.

She is very happy I am here though and already convinced (it seems) that moving will make her life better... that alone seemed impossible a short while ago. Following Joe´s advice I got myself a YMCA membership on my first
morning here. It´s literally around the corner and very well equipped. I had a good serious swim yesterday (for a change) and have an appointment with a trainer tomorrow. He insisted I should do this to help alleviate the pressure the family situation brings and he´s right.

A friend called my trip a ´refurbishing vacation´. Since NYC I have been planning (and succeeding) in taking care of doctor/gym/dentist/eye doctor appointments. Goed zo, jongen! (tapping own shoulder)

Let´s not even talk about the war.

lots of love to you two

rog (starting to learn what time really does to people)

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Saturday, March 22, 2003

03:31 Did I tell you that I lost Richard´s laptop in Newark? Apparently I forgot it at the x-ray just after check-in but only noticed it when I was already inside the plane. It´s been found already. Lucky me.
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Thursday, March 20, 2003

17:19 I'm supposed to be washing some clothes and packing but what I'm really doing is radio listening and fopz.com browsing. The suppershuttle to Newark picks me up four hours before my flight's departure time.
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16:49

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Wednesday, March 19, 2003

17:16 Lots of pain in my lower back. It started last Thursday and keeps getting worse. I'll see a doctor today.
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Tuesday, March 18, 2003

23:04

Found the Asser-Levy baths on W23rd street. The pool was about to close but I managed to take pictures and talk to some of the staff (very friendly). I got myself a lock (needed for the locker rooms) and will try to come back tomorrow.
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19:13 Therapy and plenty of commas
Up there in cold Vancouver Caterina has had it with winter and writes that she has exhausted her inner resources. I feel more or less the same but the situation doesn't bother me all that much. Unable to output much in spite of all the input I've been getting I just go on enjoying the minutes.

It's spring in New York and today a sweater over a t-shirt seems to be doing the job.

We returned yesterday from a splendid weekend in Stockbridge, West Massachusetts. We were guests of Michael and Margie deSisto who run a therapeutic boarding school for troubled kids aged 14 to 18 . Margie and Michael's roomy, comfortable house is attached to the main school building and has a steady flow of guests, students and friends who keep passing by for a chat, for advice, to eat or to bring in someone's specialty dish.



The contrast with my Amsterdam life couldn't be bigger or any more pleasant. In two days I met some 15+ interesting and diverse people (many of which massaged each other as they talked) and was treated to cheesecakes, corned beef, chili, bagels with lox, pepper-crusted tuna filet, cookies and ice cream, massage.

The housekeeper was Butanese.

On Sunday we drove to North Adams for a visit to MassMoCA and then to Williamstown for the Clark Art Institute. The New England landscape looked very peaceful and was still covered in immaculate white snow. On the radio a news program announced that diplomatic efforts were about to be ended and that New York City would soon have increased armed security in the streets and possibly military aircraft defending its airspace (operation Atlas). This morning the subway station on 116th Street and Broadway was closed and a bunch of fire trucks unloaded a bunch of firemen all around me (holding a NYC map) as we tried to catch a taxi. It was 9:45 as we rode downtown and there was barely any traffic.

You can't help but think all day long that something really bad could happen at any moment. Sometimes this feels strangely liberating, though most of the time it feels just surreal or revolting. I'm supposed to fly to Rio next Thursday night - that's in two days.
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Friday, March 14, 2003

17:38 Mixed-up NYC notes
- I eat rice and beans as I write this, and listen to Amon Tobin.

- There's war-or-no-war messages all over the city and with much more nuance than I had expected. Lots of fuss about the French. People pouring together lots of good wine in the gutter (curb?). Discussions on whether or not to rename French toast and French fries to Freedom Toast and Freedom Fries*. Yesterday we saw for the first time military presence in a subway station, four or five of them, with rifles. You can see gas masks in the windows of several security and hardware stores.


Times Square

- The first shop I stepped in, in the morning of my first day, was a Japanese bookstore called Kinokunya. It had a few too many good titles on Japanese baths. Among those I found a nice little book called 'Undesigning the Bath' by Leonard Koren, a Californian now living in Japan and who, I also learned, used to publish 'WET: the Magazine of Gourmet Bathing' back in the 70's. 'Undesigning the Bath' is a short text on the relation between design and what the author calls 'the superior bath' (ugh). I had to get around the slightly egocentric tone of the text but Koren really knows what he's talking about.** The photographs are outstanding, in particular a series where Japanese men bathe in a gondola suspended 150m high over sea water and rocky cliffs (talk about the superior bath!)

- Went to see Julie Taymor's Frida and, at last, Almodovar's Hable con ella. If anyone knows what love is, love between people, Almodovar does.

- Went to the Lure on Wednesday night and had the pleasure to meet BJ in person. He's a nice guy! We plan to meet again before I leave, hopefully in a place where we can actually talk.

- The Lure had a lovely stripper girl (?!): Dirty Martini. She had a Rubens figure and danced out of her chinese robe behind two golden fans. Tassels and all. Cute.

- I had coffee only twice since I'm here. I am having one right now.

- The New Yorker of March 10 had an excellent article on Daslu, Sao Paulo's most exclusive boutiques: their services, clientele, internal hierarchical structure and how all of this relates to the life of most Brazilians. Incredible.

- I went to the public pool on East 54th Street but it was closed for renovations. I then went to the public pool on West 59th Street but swimming there requires a year membership of $75. When I said I was visiting the young receptionist said that she couldn't do anything about it except offering me a "one-shag deal", but even then I would have to wait two more hours because the pool was being used for lifesaver instruction. No, the "one shag deal" would not allow me to take pictures, for that I would need to contact the person in charge of press relations, and no, it also wouldn't be possible to have a look at the pool because during the lifesaver instruction hours the future lifesavers need "their undivided attention". So far no pool for me. There's three more to go, including one in Astoria that is supposed to be beautiful.

- Last Sunday morning we tried the Russian and Turkish baths on East 10th Street. Considering the $22 entry fee the facilities were surprisingly shabby. Massage was insistently offered even before we crossed the door into the reception. The 'Russian Bath' of radiant heat, the only mildly interesting part, was a sort of hot large concrete cave with two seating levels protruding from its walls. Wooden planks served as sitting surface over the hot concrete and several faucets, embedded in the steps, were used for filling big beige plastic buckets with cold water. Once in a while a guy would pour a bucket over himself, also inevitably spraying the ones seating nearby. Not really elegant but sort of funny and enjoyable. People were pretty sociable, lots of talking everywhere. The baths are mixed on most days and you're required to wear loose cotton shorts, in dark colors, provided along with towels at the entrance of the locker rooms. Sundays have the only men-only hours and you can chose between the shorts or only a towel. Towels are pretty small. While we were getting dressed to leave, I saw the arrival of an orthodox jewish man. Huge and extremely hairy, he disrobed and walked down to the bath area wearing his yarmulke and holding the tiny towel around half of his waist.

*From BJ's page:
Officials at the French Embassy thought it was ignorant, pointing out that French fries actually come from Belgium.
‘‘We are at a very serious moment dealing with very serious issues and we are not focusing on the name you give to potatoes,’’ Nathalie Loisau, an embassy spokeswoman, told the Associated Press.


Yeah, let's hop in our SUVs, suck up some more $3.00/gallon gas on our way to McDonald's for Freedom Fries - that'll show 'em!


** From Undesigning the Bath:
(p.38) Certain behavioral rules, or an etiquette of bathing, may also help induce your entry into realms of altered ontological status.
(p.101) A communal bathing situation, where everybody is equally conscious of notknowing the rules, can cause a momentary breakdown of social hierarchy which is actually quite a delightful sensation (...) confusion and discomfort replace delight when notions of courtesy, modesty, privacy and propriety are individually addressed in conflicting ways.
(p. 29) The bath, under propitious circumstances, is an informal ritual that awakens your mind to the existence of your body and your body to the existence of your mind.

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Thursday, March 13, 2003

17:30





03




It's been three years!
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Wednesday, March 12, 2003

15:53 From New York
I arrived in New York last Friday and since then I have managed to sleep a lot, recover from the previous stressy weeks and have a very nice time while awake. I am staying at Joe's place where all walls are covered with books (as is pretty much all the remaining space). He's been a wonderful host with blueberries and newpapers and salmon and six feet under and soy milk. Looking out the windows there's as much to see below us as there is above. A flipped perspective that I seem to like and miss. There's much to write about. I promise I'll try.
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